2 weeks in Morocco
Morocco - a place where history, culture and commerce collide in a whirlwind of activity and sensory experiences. On our 2 week tour with @roughtours, our driver, @hassanlamghari, took us on a journey that left us breathless, enchanted and forever captivated by the country’s unique charm. The heartbeat of Morocco - the sounds of the call to prayer, the hammering of brass in the alleyways of the souks, the donkeys’ hoofbeats on the cobblestones and the sound of a welcoming mint tea being poured from on high, all encompass the essence of this captivating country.
Our tour began in Casablanca, then onto the dazzling blue city of Chefchaouen , where we stayed at a lovely riad just outside the medina, www.darechchaouen.ma.
Chefchaouen is a picturesque city in the northwest, known for its unique blue-washed buildings. There are various theories around why they are blue. Some believe the tradition of painting buildings blue dates back to Jewish heritage, symbolizing the sky or heaven. It’s also said that the blue helps to repel mosquitos or keeps the houses cool during the hot months. But whatever the reason, the result is a stunning cityscape of narrow, winding blue streets, vibrant markets and a relaxed atmosphere.
Leaving Chefchaouen we stopped at Volubilis, which is an ancient Roman city dating back to the 3rd Century BCE, when it was initially settled by the Carthaginians, later becoming a significant outpost of the Roman Empire. Juba 11 of Mauretania (who was married to the daughter of Mark Anthony and Cleopatra) was installed as King from 50 BCE to 24 CE. The Romans abandoned Volubilis around 280 CE, but it continued to be inhabited until the 18th century when its marble was taken for Moulay Ismail’s palaces in Meknes, and finally the city was destroyed by the Lisbon earthquake in 1755. The ruins are well preserved with many mosaics providing insight into the city’s former grandeur and sophistication.
And then to Fes. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a labyrinth of narrow, bustling streets, historical monuments, ancient architecture and traditional markets. Its a hub of traditional craftsmanship, notably in leather, ceramics and textiles. The sounds of the call to prayer can almost be heard over the rhythmic clatter of artisans crafting goods, the cries of “Balek! (look out!) as donkey carts come up the narrow alleyways and the calls of vendors encouraging you to visit their stalls. And Fes offers a sometimes delightful and sometimes intense olfactory experience. The aroma of freshly baked bread and sizzling tagines waft through the air, and then there’s the pungent smells from the tanneries. You have to wonder about the health of the men standing thigh high in pigeon poo, salt and lime all day. Although some tanneries are introducing measures to provide protective gear, the process seen by us is still very much as it has always been.
There’s plenty to occupy and fascinate in Fes:
Get lost in the medina. You will. There’s no avoiding it. But that’s half the fun - and you will find your way out - possibly with a bit of help from a friendly local. (We found the locals to be extremely friendly and helpful all over Morocco. It was only in Marrakech that the help came with the expectation of payment). If you head downhill you will eventually exit at the Place R’cif, and uphill will lead you to a major city gate.
Visit the Al Quaraouiyine Mosque and University - one of the oldest universities in the world.
Visit the Donkey Hospital (American Fondouk), just outside the medina, which provides medical care, treatment and support for injured or overworked donkeys and mules. The friendly volunteers are happy to take you around and tell you about its various patients.
Sample the local produce - olives, dates, nougat, and, of course, mint tea. There are even some places in Fes serving alcohol, although it is not easy to find.
Explore the ‘Mellah’ or Jewish Quarter, which offers a glimpse into the city’s diverse heritage, with some ruined grand old homes, old doorways and goldsmiths workshops.
Visit Art Naji just outside the medina to see how the pottery and tiles are made. Guides will take you through and show all phases of production.
Stay - so many lovely riads. We stayed at www.riad-ahlam.com, where the staff couldn’t have been friendlier.
From Fes we made our way to Erg Chebbi in the Sahara Desert via Merzouga. We had a sunset camel ride across the shifting sand dunes, which turned rose-gold as the sun set. Stunning vista, but after a two and a half hour camel ride I vowed never again! Been there, done that! But it was beautiful, and an experience you’re unlikely to have anywhere else - especially when you reach your destination - a luxury camp in the middle of the sand dunes. It is a magical and memorable adventure, moving rhythmically across the sand, watching the sun set and cast shadows across the desert. The bruises on my thighs tainted my enjoyment, but I’d still recommend you do it!
From there we headed through the High Atlas, to the Middle Atlas, stopping at Skoura and at Rissani, where we visited a local market- not another tourist in sight. It is a bustling and vibrant souk, where locals trade and buy, coming from over 300 surrounding villages, often by donkey. In Skoura we visited Ahl El Oust, a historic kasbah in the Skoura oasis. It’s a well-preserved sprawling complex featuring mud-brick structures, narrow winding passages and intricate traditional Moroccan design.
From Skoura, we headed to Agadir. The only thing to recommend it was the long beach, but we stopped off there to break up the drive to Essaouira. However, the highlight of the drive to Agadir was the sight of goats climbing the Argan trees! The landscape is so dry, that when the goats come upon a tree bursting with tasty green shoots and argan nuts they climb up for their meal. An extraordinary sight! Apparently on the road between Essaouira and Marrakech opportunists were tethering the goats to the trees to encourage tourists to stop and pay for the privilege of seeing them. Fortunately this practice has been stopped, and, as far as I know, our encounter was spontaneous.
The journey from Agadir to Essaouira followed the Atlantic ocean. Another variation in scenery. The drive through Morocco showed us such a difference in geology and landscape - from the stark hills of the High Atlas, to the windy stretch of the rugged coastline; from the dry, scrubby country to the lushness of the oasis full of date palms in the Middle Atlas.
On the way up the coast we stopped for lunch at a very local town - Tamri - where we had the best meal we’d had anywhere in Morocco. It was a tiny shop with a boy grilling sardines over the coals at the front of the shop and 3 or 4 tables inside. No cutlery, no accompaniments - just salty sardines to be torn apart with your fingers and eaten with a hunk of bread. Perfect!
Essaouira charms its visitors with its unique blend of cultural richness and serene coastal beauty. Although don’t expect to bask in the sun on the beach on a regular basis- the coastal winds are strong, which makes it a hub for windsurfing and kitesurfing. The town’s relaxed atmosphere is encapsulated by its narrow winding streets, waves lashing the ramparts surrounding the medina, and colourful markets and art galleries. Going for a stroll on the historical ramparts, you may recognise the location as that of Astapor in Game of Thrones.
Onto Marrakech. This vibrant and historic city is known for its mesmerizing Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stands at the heart of this North African gem. The Medina is a whirlwind of activity, an assault on the senses and a treasure trove of culture and tradition. Every corner reveals something new and captivating.
The Medina’s labyrinthine streets are a hallmark of its charm. Wandering through these narrow alleys is like stepping into a time machine, where donkey carts and locals on scooters share the road with pedestrians. Its easy to get lost, but that’s all part of the adventure. Just try not to get knocked over by the constant stream of scooters. Keep to the right!
The Medina is a shopaholic’s dream come true with bustling souks (markets) brimming with exotic treasures - from colourful textiles and intricate carpets to fragrant spices and handmade ceramics. Plenty of treasures to be found everywhere, but if you’re over haggling and want something a little more contemporary check out @thedifferentconcept which has unique jewellery, tshirts, perfumes and nicnaks. And for some handmade but very reasonably priced, finely designed jewellery visit @lamsajewelryl
Among the chaotic streets you’ll stumble upon architectural wonders like the Koutoubia Mosque with its towering minaret, the Bahia Palace with its opulent courtyards, and the Saadian Tombs hidden for centuries. Each site reflects Morocco’s rich history and craftsmanship. When it all becomes too much look around and you’ll likely find a quiet courtyard garden for a refreshing juice and tasty meal. Try @lejardinmarrekech
The scent of sizzling tagines and freshly baked bread wafts through the air. Marrakech Medina is a food lover’s paradise. Plenty of traditional dishes like couscous, kebabs and tagines, but also some more Mediterranean fare, if you’ve had enough of tagines. ‘Nomad’, close to Jemaa el-Fnaa is worth checking out, although the prices are equivalent to eating out in Australia.
Jemaa el-Fnaa is the central square where the frenzy reaches its peak. By day, its a gathering place for street performers, snake charmers and henna tattoo artists. As the sun sets it transforms into a bustling food market, with an array of stalls offering delectable treats. Be prepared to give coins if you attempt to take photos, and avoid the snake charmers and dressed-up monkeys with chains around their ankles. We found this area overwhelming with the constant hassling, in contrast to other areas of Morocco. Throughout the whole country we found the people to be incredibly generous with their time and help, but unfortunately at times the friendliness here turned into cohersion and requests for money. But only with a few. If you want directions to anywhere ask a shop owner or policeman.
Amidst the commotion, Marrakech’s riads provide tranquil retreats. These traditional guesthouses feature lush courtyards, intricate tile work, and serene gardens, offering a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle. We stayed at Astra Damus, a small, beautifully decorated riad in the Medina. The staff could not have been more friendly or welcoming. And the rooftop pool was a blessing after a hot sweaty day getting lost in the Medina.
Whilst in Marrakech I would strongly recommend the cooking class run by Cafe Clock (also offered in Fes and Chefchaouen). We spent about 4 hours with @mohammedennouichi and were able to choose a salad, soup, main and cookie to make. All hands on with explicit instructions from Mohammed. Has to be the best meal I ate in Morocco!
In conclusion, Morocco is a place where history, culture, and commerce collide in a whirlwind of activity and sensory experiences. Its a destination that will leave you breathless, enchanted and forever captivated by its unique charm. So, when you visit Morocco be prepared to embrace the frenzy, lose yourself in the maze, and savour every moment of this remarkable Moroccan adventure!
